Wanderer’s guides are not exhaustive lists of everything to see and do in their respective cities, but rather a guide to city as I experience it- usually through aimless wandering, eating food, and treasure hunting. It is a collection of narrative images with the intention of giving you a jumping off point for your own adventure through the city, with a couple of very strongly recommended places. It is meant to show you the soul of the city, as I see it, and inspire you while you dream and plan your travels. At the end of each post you will see a link to my google map of the places I went and other places I recommend. Photos are all mine unless otherwise noted, and may be taken with my DSLR, iPhone, or Diana camera.
The heartbeat of New Orleans is palpable on every street corner. You feel it waiting on every door step, walking down every alleyway, swirling through every cocktail. It’s there in the jazz music emanating out of every bar and street corner. It’s there in the creole food, flavored in such a way to always leave you wanting more. It’s there in the people, vibrant, and living life filled with creativity.
I grew up coming to this inspiring city every other summer with my family. When I thought of the first place that I would want to create a gypsy guide for, it was none other than this place, so near and dear to my heart. I hope you enjoy my little guide to New Orleans and that it inspires you to travel there or to go back again and discover something new.
After arriving, I began my journey with a pleasant evening stroll through the French Quarter…
and eventually made my way to Central Grocery for a very late lunch (you really ought to work up a hunger for this place). I grew up coming to Central grocery for their muffulettas- a sandwich the size of pizza that will make even a sandwich-hater fall in love. And I couldn’t leave without a stash of Tony Chacheres creole seasoning. I put this stuff on everything, and I mean everything. I have yet to find it in New York, so I stock up every time I’m in the south.
I then wandered onto Royal Street, a world famous high-end antique shopping street. I would never (read: could never) actually buy something in one of these stores, but it’s nice to peek through the windows at all the sparkling antiques.
After spending the rest of the afternoon just wandering the French Quarter, I made my way back to the neighborhood I was staying in, Marigny, and spent the evening on Frenchmen Street- also known as- the street where the locals go. Though, I have a sneaking suspicion I was not the only tourist out on Frenchmen Street that night. I grabbed a quick bowl of gumbo and then happened upon this lovely little artisan’s alley, where crafters were selling their wares:
By the time I wanted to settle in at The Spotted Cat Music Club, famous for it’s nightly live music, the place was so packed that I opted to look for a less popular location. I was in and out of a few of the other bars on the street, listening to an assortment of live music. I think my favorite was actually Cafe Negril- a lively Jamaican club where a fabulous reggae band had people of all ages cutting a rug on the floor. It was serious fun.
The next morning I began with my favorite Nola treat- beignets and cafe au lait at Café du Monde. (Tip: Saturday morning is the worst time to go, I didn’t want to wait for over an hour to sit so I grabbed it to go and sat outside on a bench nearby instead.)
Via alleyways and small side streets, I made my way to Canal St at St. Charles to catch the St. Charles street car through the lovely Garden District.
Before I rave about The Columns Hotel, a tip about my biggest regret- I planned to go to Commander’s Palace for their Jazz brunch they do on weekends, but found out much too late that they only let you in with a reservation and reservations are planned much in advance. Not only would they not take me for either of the brunches, but I couldn’t get in for dinner either. So, if you want to eat what is supposed to be the best meal in Nola- plan ahead!
Anyway, my spirits were revived when I arrived at The Columns Hotel. The hotel is on the National Register of Historic places and was designed by Thomas Sully in 1883 and is the only remaining example of a large group of Italianate houses that he designed in the late 1880s. On the porch of the hotel you can enjoy food and cocktails. Soaking up the southern sun while drinking a French 75 is one of my favorite memories of my trip!
From there I headed to Magazine Street- the 6 mile long shopping Mecca of New Orleans. On this street you will find lovely old houses converted into boutiques, cafes, and coffee shops. To my knowledge, most of the stores here are not chain stores, but unique little shops- mostly filled with clothes or antiques. I didn’t really shop here because the antiques aren’t totally inexpensive and I’m up to my ears in boutiques in Brooklyn. But it was fun to walk!
One of my beautiful gypsy soul mate sisters recommended I stop in to Sucré for some sweet treats. Another regret from the trip was opting for a slice of almond cake over their famous King Cake. I don’t know what I was thinking really…
Shortly after overloading myself with sugar, I stopped into New Orleans’ very own Community Coffee for an afternoon pick-me-up.
And then!!! I found this! Juan’s Flying Burrito. Two of my favorite words were strung together- Creole Taqueria. I nearly died. So I changed my plans for my stomach and went inside…where I read the words “housemade queso with chorizo” on the wall and nearly died allover again. Back in my heyday (before I moved away from Texas) I was a queso connoisseur. It did not disappoint. It is not to be missed.
After filling my stomach with cheese, I went ahead with business as usual, and waited in line for 45 minutes! at Acme Oyster House. Because I can get oysters anywhere, I went for a Nola classic- the fried shrimp po’boy. I ordered only half of one, with a cup of gumbo (see previous photo of cheese), only to scarf it down and order another half. It was embarrassing. But I don’t care because it. was. so. good.
And while we are talking about deliciousness on and around Bourbon Street, you can’t leave without having a few drinks.
1. A housemade hurricane from Jean Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop, supposedly the oldest structure to be used as a bar in the US.
2. A Cajun Storm Daiquiri from Daiquiri Delite (to me, this is what Nola tastes like in an alcoholic liquid form).
3. A toxic baby shot from Pirate’s Alley. Nobody knows what’s in it, and it’s black as asphalt, but it’s delicious.
4. A huge ass beer. There is no photo of this drink because I didn’t actually have it this time around, I wanted to be able to get up for brunch the next morning. 😉
Sunday was probably my favorite day, and maybe one of my favorite days ever. It was 65 degrees and sunny so I hopped on a bike and rode through Marigny, the colorful neighborhood just to the east of the French Quarter.
At the edge of Marigny was my other long-awaited meal, brunch at Elizabeth’s. AND OMG PRALINE BACON. Nothing else I say to you matters right now. Go to Elizabeth’s. Eat praline bacon. That is all.
Personally, my favorite little shopping corner is the one on Decatur between Barracks St and Governor Nicholls St. It’s got a few little junk and vintage stores. But most importantly, it’s where I found my antique trumpet turned lamp that now sits on my nightstand. I’m obsessed.
Next was Jackson Square to watch the über talented street performers do acrobatic tricks and make fun of everybody. It was a riot.
I ended the weekend fabulously, in true New Orleans fashion with: dinner at Mr. B’s Bistro (their famous barbecued shrimp and truffle garlic fries);
followed by a French 75 at the Carousel Bar in the Hotel Monteleone. The bar is a carousel and the whole thing spins! It was a bit dizzying at first, but you get used to it;
followed by a drink at Pat O’Brien’s dueling piano bar;
followed by my favorite part of the weekend- seeing The New Orleans Legacy Band play live at Preservation Hall. Preservation Hall is small and authentic, with seating only for 30 people with a bit of standing room. If I closed my eyes, I really felt myself swept back in time to an era where New Orleans jazz was in it’s prime and America was filled with the promise of inspiring music and art and fashion. I loved it.
So that’s about it! It was wonderful to escape the polar vortex happening here in New York and enjoy the southern Louisiana sun. New Orleans is one of my favorite cities in the world and I love going back now as an adult and with my camera.
Here is where I stayed:
I can’t say enough good things about the host or the accommodations! Chris was communicative and helpful, the room was beautiful, and I loved staying in Marigny. One of the best parts was that he provides two bikes to use (helmets too!) if you want to get around and explore that way. I whole-heartedly recommend it! It was nice to stay just outside of the French Quarter because it was close, but still far enough away to have it’s own vibe and things to do.
Here’s what I brought home:
The antique trumpet lamp I mentioned before, a box of pralines, and other little memorabilia. 🙂
And here is my google map of New Orleans.
Click to view New Orleans in a larger map for better detail and to see my notes!
Any other tips about New Orleans? Spots that I missed or need to see next time?
